Monday, March 29, 2010

Mixed Greens with Fried Walnut-Coated Goat Cheese and Sherry Vinaigrette (page 34)

Just when I was ready to give up on Hamersley's salads, I ran into this one.  Mr. Hamersley, you redeemed yourself!

First, get your goat cheese at Costco--their standard size is 10 ounces and the price is great. 

Next, prepare the coating and coat the goat cheese balls.  NOTE:  cut the coating ingredients in half; even then you will have way too much.  Also, you only need one egg.  Finally, remember that 1 shallot=1 tablespoon. 

While the goat cheese is chilling, prepare the dressing.  The mustard makes it the perfect complement to the goat cheese and this time I have no quarrel with dressing to greens ratio. 

Fry the goat cheese at the very end.  You don't have to use it immediately--mine sat for 20 minutes or so and it was still great.

The bottom line:  I can't wait to impress my friend's with this one.

Portobello Mushroom and Roquefort Galette (page 118)

I have made desert galette but never a savory version.  After making this recipe I am hooked

These take a bit of time--probably 1 1/2 hours from start to table.  The first step is preparing the tart dough (page 115), which can be done several days in advance if you want to speed up the process.  I used a food processor and it was a snap.  Try using frozen butter if you do this as you are less likely to over mix the butter.  Once the butter is mixed into the flour, you will dump the mixture onto a clean surface and add water.  Resist the urge to add more water.  Once you start the fraisage technique, the dough will hold together fine. 

While the dough is chilling, prepare the filling.  I used baby bellas instead of the big portobellas.  I did scrap off the gills but, when I make this again, I don't think I will go to the trouble.  Removing the gills is supposed to make the galette look less "muddy" but not much mushroom shows anyway.

The biggest problem I had with this recipe was deciding what to do with the mushroom stems.  The directions said to remove them but not what to do with them once they were removed.  Next time I will slice the stems and use them as well.

The rest of the recipe is a piece of cake:  cook the mushrooms, add the wine, cream, cheese and seasoning, assemble and bake.  Serve hot from the oven with a green salad and you have a wonderful light supper. 

The bottom line:  Addictive!

Chopped Salad of Peas, Cucumbers and Radishes with Tarragon Vinaigrette (page 46)

Chopped salads are so quick to make and what could be better than peas, cucumbers and radishes?  A lot.  The texture of the base salad is some what coarse, and topping it with a mixture of round peas, diced cucumbers and rounds of radish didn't improve it.

Plus, we have the dressing issue again.  There is only about 1/2 cup of dressing, which equates to about 1 1/2 tablespoon of dressing per salad--not nearly enough for the amount of ingredients.

The bottom line:  so far salads have not proven to be Hamersley's strong suit.  

Hearts of Romaine and Watercress with Creamy Parmesan Dressing (page 35)

Caesar salad has always been a favorite at our house, so I was looking forward to trying this recipe.  To be honest, the basic salad did nothing for me.  The watercress and romaine combination didn't work well because of the difference in leaf size as well as the differences in texture and flavor. 

The dressing is another matter.  Making real Caesar dressing from scratch--although delicious--is tedious.  Hamersley makes his dressing in the blender and it is done in a jiffy.  It does not taste exactly like a traditional Caesar dressing but it is very good in its own right.

The bottom line:  the dressing recipe is a keeper; the salad not so much.

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Pommes Anna (page 265)

After several months of praise for the author, I came to the Pommes Anna.  I don't know who "Anna " is, but I suspect it is someone Hamersley has it in for. 

Where to start.  First of all, Hamersley gives only a vague idea of potato quantity.  "Three russet potatoes" can vary from 1 1/2 pounds in total to 4 1/2 pounds.  Since this recipes is supposed to serve 6 to 8 people, I used 1/2 pound of potato per person times 8 people for 4 pounds total.  I used 8 people based on the amount of butter in the recipe:  8 tablespoons equates to 1 tablespoon per person--an ample amount in my mind. 

The potatoes are sliced and layered into an 8 inch cast iron skillet.  Full disclosure:  I do not own such a skillet so I used a 10-inch Teflon-coated skillet.  In fairness to Hamersley, this was probably not the best substitution as cast iron holds the heat better.

At any rate, after tediously layering the potatoes and slathering them with butter, it was time to bake them.  Problem number two:  there is no estimate of total bake time!  The potatoes cook covered for 20 minutes.  You are then instructed to remove the lid and cook "until the potatoes are very tender when pierced with the tip of a knife."  I left them in for another hour as this is when the potatoes were browned slightly around the edges as Hamersley described.

Problem number three:  inversion onto a large plate so you can cut into wedges and serve.   The inversion part was not a problem but the wedges were.  Instead of coming out in a nice, brown, toasty piece as I imagined, out came a butter-soaked mess that had no intention of holding together. 

Problem number four:  it tasted as bad as it looked.  The potatoes were still a bit raw tasting not to mention being very greasy. 

The bottom line:  There are plenty of wonderful pomme recipes in the world but this is not one of them.

Skillet Cooked Skirt Steak with Blue Cheese Butter (page 217)

This was my first attempt at skirt steak and it could not have been easier or more tasty.  Just a couple of notes: 
  • Remember, 1 shallot=1 Tablespoon chopped shallots.  Any more would over power the blue cheese butter.
  • Hamersley suggests one pound of skirt steak for two people.  That is a lot of protein.  This will serve four people if paired with a side dish and a green salad.
The bottom line:  Another wonderful take on bistro cooking.

Sear-Roasted Rib Steak with Garlic Butter (page 212)

If you like steak, you will love this recipe.   The steaks are done in a hot oven making this dish perfect for a cold winter night when outdoor grilling loses its romantic quality.

The steaks themselves take only about 10 minutes, depending on how well done you like them.  However, the garlic butter, which provides the WOW factor in this recipe, must be prepared ahead.  Hamersley has you prepare a double batch of garlic butter.  It is very tasty and could be used as a spread for bread or a topping for vegetables or, as Hamersley suggests, under the skin of a chicken before roasting or tossed into the broth of steamed mussels.  But, if you don't like dribs and drabs of stuff in your refrigerator, you can prepare a half-batch of butter.

The bottom line:  As good as your local steakhouse--or maybe better.

Fiona's Easy Halibut with White Wine, Shallots, and Basil (page 151)

Bistro Cooking at Home was a Christmas gift from my parents.  My original intention was to start at the beginning of the entrees and prepare them in order.  That meant starting with Fiona's Easy Halibut.  Here, I received my first cooking lesson when the guy at Fresh Market informed me that "Halibut is a spring fish." 

With the official arrival of spring, I was gratified to find Halibut had also arrived in the meat case, at Costco no less.  One package at Costco is just the right amount for the recipe, which serves 4.  It is also about half of the price you will pay at your local meat market.

Mrs. Hamersley favors the same ingredients as her spouse so I had everything else I needed on hand:  butter, shallots (I used 1/2 of a Harris Teeter shallot or about 2 Tbsp and probably could have used the whole thing), kosher salt, pepper, white wine, basil and parsley.  And, like her spouse, she favors simple preparations.  Basically, you poach the fish in a wine/butter sauce.  When it is done, it is very pale--white fish and white sauce.  I must admit based on appearance alone, I had my doubts.  However, the flavor of this dish is superb. 

Mrs. Hamersley suggests steamed new potatoes as an accompaniment.  Instead, I served this in a shallow pasta bowl with a rice pilaf that included peas for color.  This way you get the full benefit of the lovely sauce. 

The bottom line:  My husband already wants to know when I will be serving this again.  Mrs. Hamersley, that is high praise indeed.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Coq Au Vin (page 186)

My husband loves chicken legs and thighs but I am not so crazy about them.  This recipe almost made me into a convert.

The directions are easy to follow but a few comments about the ingredients. 
  • Unless you go to a butcher or meat market, you are unlikely to end up with exactly 2.5 pounds of chicken.   If you have to go one way or the other, don't be afraid of rounding up.  There is plenty of "au vin" to go around. 
  • As usual, I substituted low-sodium chicken broth in a box for Hamersley's made-from-scratch version and was very happy with the results.
  • After searching the supermarket without luck for cremini mushrooms, the produce guy told me that baby bellas are the same thing (i.e.-wild brown mushrooms).
  • I also substituted 1/2 teaspoon of dried thyme in place of the fresh thyme
A final note, if you have not invested in a gravy separator, do so now.  It makes degreasing a lot easier.

We had a special bottle of Cote du Beaune wine, given to us by friends who were frequent travelers to the region, which was the perfect accompaniment as Fiona suggested it would be. 

The bottom line:  A great way to dress up ordinary chicken legs.

Grilled Tuna Au Poivre with Red Wine Vinaigrette (page 160)

Grilled tuna is frequently on the menu at my house (Costco usually has it at a wonderful price) and I am always looking for a new preparation.  The recipe is similar to one I like in that it tops the grilled tuna with a nice vinaigrette. 

The base of this vinaigrette is a red wine reduction.  It wasn't hard to do, it just added time as the reduction has to be cooled before you can use it.  As the title of the recipe reveals, the tuna is seasoned with cracked black pepper before grilling to your liking.  The vinaigrette and tuna are then combined before serving.

I usually complain that Hamersley is stingy with his dressings.  This recipe is the opposite.  There is almost 1/4 cup of dressing per tuna steak.  To accommodate the amount of sauce, I served each steak in a shallow bowl.  The sauce helped cut the fire of the pepper but it still seemed too much.  Between the pepper and the sauce, the flavor or the tuna was lost.

The bottom line:  If you like grilled tuna, here is my favorite tuna recipe adapted from one by chef Guy Savoy

Grilled Tuna with Black-Olive Vinaigrette

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil plus 2 tablespoons
1/4 cup sliced black olives
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
4 sushi or sashimi grade tuna steaks, preferably 2-inches thick and about 6 ounces each

Make the vinaigrette:  In the bowl of a mini food processor or blender, add lemon juice.  With the motor running, slowly pour in 1/2 cup of olive oil in a thin stream and blend until an emulsion forms.  Add olives and pulse until olives are finely chopped but still visible. 

Grill the tuna:  Preheat grill on high.  Drizzle tuna steaks with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil then sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Cook on high heat without moving for 3 minutes.  Turn steaks and continue cooking 3 more minutes for rare or longer if desired. 

Let tuna stand for a few minutes to absorb juices.  Serve steaks whole or sliced cross wise.  Place steaks on each plate and drizzle with sauce before serving.  This dish is also great chilled and served on top of a bed of greens. 



Salmon Wrapped in Leeks with Anchovy Butter (page 156)

This recipe sounds harder than it actually is.  Preparing the leek wrappers and anchovy butter are both simple and easy.   Wrapping the leeks around the fillets wasn't hard either but the directions are a bit confusing. 

The leek wrappers are only 4 inches long.  Hamersley directs you to "lay three or four leek leaves down on your work surface, overlapping them slightly so that they form a rectangle."  So far, so good. 

He goes on to say "put a salmon fillet on top of the leeks...wrap the leeks around the salmon, and put the salmon, seam side down, onto the baking sheet."  Since the circumference of the salmon is greater than 4 inches, it is impossible to have a seam--instead I had a gap.  I didn't know whether to patch the gap with some of the left over leek leaves or just let the gap remain.  I opted to patch the gap and then flip the fillet over so that the top side looked nice.  The finished fillets looked delicious and tasted even better--moist and buttery. 

The bottom line:  Don't be intimidated by the wrapping instructions. This recipe is a definite keeper.

Grilled Salmon with Peas, Potatoes and Mint (page 155)

This recipe is chocked full of great ingredients plus you are essentially making your entire meal at once so I was anxious to try it.  The first step is making the salad that will go beneath the salmon. 

The peas and potatoes are cooked separately, cooled and then combined with the lemon vinaigrette and shallots (2 tablespoons) about 10 minutes before serving.  

Preparing the salmon is straight forward--just throw it on the grill and cook to your satisfaction. 

Finally, greens are added to the pea/potato mixture to complete the salad.  I used mixed salad greens.  The salad is then plated and topped with the grilled salmon. 

This should be a great summer dish but it just didn't do it for me.  I didn't find the texture of the peas and potatoes to be compatible plus there wasn't enough dressing (a scant 3 tablespoons per salad) to coat the volume of the salad. 

The bottom line:  I really wanted to like this recipe but it came up short.

Gratin of Artichoke and Swiss Chard (page 107)

Hamersley suggests this dish an accompaniment to the bacon-wrapped sea scallops. They are great together but this dish would be great with other sea food as well because of its subtle lemon flavor. 

If you follow the recipe precisely, this dish is somewhat involved and expensive.  You start by cooking four large artichokes but you only use the bottoms.  It seemed like such a waste to discard the leaves.  Perhaps they could be used as an appetizer although it might look funny to serve them unattached to the bottom.  Also, I wonder if frozen artichoke bottoms would be an acceptable substitute.  Suggestions please!

Next, you chop and saute the vegetables--no big deal here.  Finally, the vegetables go in a gratin dish and are topped off with some cream, cheese and bread crumbs.  Do not cut corners and use those dried bread crumbs from the supermarket.  Make Hamersley's Bistro Bread Crumbs (page 7). 

This would be a great dish for company.  I would do everything ahead and refrigerate, then put the toppings on right before baking.  Don't forget to add several minutes to the time to compensate for the refrigeration.   

The bottom line:  This is a wonderful, but expensive, dish due to the cost of the artichokes and Swiss chard (my supermarket only had organic chard).  Making this in season will reduce the price.  Also, Costco sometimes sells artichokes in bulk.

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Bacon-Wrapped Scallops with Beurre Blanc (page 154)

The seared sea scallop recipe is so good, I wonder why Hamersley felt compelled to include another scallop recipe.  This one is equally good and the preparation no more involved.  I was a bit nervous that my scallops would overcook while I was making the beurre blanc but they were fine.  The only note you should add to this recipe, if you haven't already done so, is that "1 shallot = 1 tablespoon" or your beurre blanc will be chunky and too strongly flavored. 

The bottom line:  If I were serving scallops for company, I would go with the Seared Sea Scallops (page 152) as there is less last minute preparation.

Hamersley's Red Onion Soup (page 58)

I bought a huge bag of red onions at Costco because it was such a good deal and my husband likes to add a tablespoon or so to his Caesar salad.  I was wondering what I was going to do with all of these onions when I came across this recipe.  Problem solved!

This is one of Hamersley's more time consuming recipes--lots of vegetable to dice, broth to strain, and vegetables to be puree.  It also uses a lot of pots and pans.

If you make this recipe, I would recommend doubling it so you don't have a lot of ingredients left over.  For example, one batch uses 1/2 potato and 2 tablespoons of tomato paste.  If you double the recipe you can use a whole potato and the whole can of tomato paste. 

The bottom line:  A very delicious and unique tasting soup but it is surpassed by the Onion Soup Au Gratin.

Onion Soup Au Gratin (page 56)

As a soup snob, it is difficult to impress me with a soup but Hamersley is knocking them out of the park.  Once again, this soup is simple to make and has a marvelous flavor, even when you substitute the low-sodium chicken broth in the box. 

As in his potato and leek soup, the wine in this recipe makes a big difference.  I did not have any sherry on hand (he recommends sherry if you use chicken as opposed to beef broth) so combined chicken broth and port with great results.

The bottom line:  Rivals the French Onion Soup in any good restaurant.

Fiona's Hearty Lentil Soup with Bacon and Asiago Cheese (page 55)

This recipe contains several ingredients I've never tried--lentils and kale--so I was really looking forward to making it.  Mrs. Hamersley follows in her husband's tradition.  The recipe contains a manageable number of ingredients and is quick and easy to put together.  Unlike most dried beans, you do not pre-soak the lentils before cooking--saving time.  Also, I cheated and used my low sodium chicken broth in a box instead of making the broth from scratch as directed.

I wish I could say that the soup tasted as good as it smelled.  I loved the kale but the texture of the lentils was not to my liking. 

If you make this, be sure to top the soup with the French bread and Asiago cheese.  This step really completes the dish.  

The bottom line:  I love soup in the winter and am always looking for another recipe to add to my repertoire.  Unfortunately, this one did not make the cut.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Potato and Leek Soup with Tarragon and Fennel Seeds (page 54)

I almost didn't make this recipe as I have a potato-leek soup recipe that I really love.  But, I had some leftover leeks so I decided to give it a try.  Boy, am I glad I did! 

The ingredients in Hamersley's soup are nearly identical to those in the recipe I usually prepare--leeks, butter, olive oil, chicken broth, tarragon, light cream and, of course, russet potatoes.   But as he slyly comments "this is one of those soups where a little bit of wine really makes a difference in the flavor."

The secret ingredient in this recipe is the vermouth--and not just a little bit.  The recipe calls for 1 CUP of vermouth, which struck me as a lot when you consider there are only 6 cups of total liquid.  There was one slight problem.  Hamersley does not specify what kind of vermouth to use.  I used sweet vermouth primarily because my husband wouldn't let me touch the dry vermouth he uses in his martinis.  It turned out to be a  great choice.

The other thing that needs clarifying is the amount of potatoes to use.  I presume that a medium potato is about 1/2 pound so that is what I used and the consistency of the soup was just as I like it.

The final step in this recipe is pureeing.  Hamersley directs you to your food processor but I prefer a good, old-fashioned blender, which produces a smoother soup with less mess.

The bottom line:  Even though I substituted low-sodium chicken broth in a box for Hamersley's home-made broth, this recipe is a stand out.

Tomato, Basil, and Fennel Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette (page 39)

Compared to the Hamersley recipes sampled to-date, this one is more complex.  You begin by making a vinaigrette.  This one uses lemon juice instead of vinegar, so it went well with the sea scallops I served as the entree.  However, I forgot that a "Hamersley shallot" is 1 tablespoon and chopped up one of my giant Harris Teeter Supermarket shallots.  This made a very chunky dressing.  Mark your cookbooks now:  1 shallot = 1 tablespoon! 

After the dressing, you prepare the salad itself.  The fennel is the most critical part.  Hamersley instructs you to "slice the fennel as thin as you can."  Even using my sharpest cutlery, I could not get the slices thin enough.  This makes the salad hard to eat and the fennel taste a bit over powering.  If I were to make this salad again, I would definitely use a mandoline

Once all of the slicing and chiffonading is complete, you assemble the salad.  Hamersley has you dress the greens first and plate them and then dress the toppings.  This is a great way to make sure every item gets coated.  However, there is only about 2 tablespoons of dressing per salad--a bit stingy in my book given the size of the salad.

The bottom line:  A lot of work for a so-so salad.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Seared Sea Scallops with a Garlic, Tomato, and Olive Compote (page 152)

If you like scallops, you will love this recipe.  The most time-consuming part is making the compote.  However, the compote benefits if it is made in advance.  The scallops themselves take less than 10 minutes including prep and cooking.  The only confusing part of the recipe concerns buying the scallops.  Chemically treated scallops are called "wet" scallops because the phosphates they are soaked in causes them to absorb water.  Not only does this impede the browning that makes this dish so attractive, you are paying for water instead of the meat.  For this reason, Hamersley specifies "dry" or non-treated scallops. 

Hamersley suggests serving the scallops and compote with some angel hair pasta but they were fantastic alone.  Mrs. Hamersley (aka Fiona) includes wine suggestions for each recipe.  The Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc she recommended was the ideal complement for this dish. 

The bottom line:  Sheer perfection!

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Black Olive Spread (page 30)

One of the best things about Hamersley's recipes is that they don't require lots of ingredients or overly fussing assembly.  The black olive spread is a case in point.  It has only four ingredients, all zipped together in a food processor.  It makes a wonderful appetizer or it can be spread on a slice of toasted baguette and used as a garnish for salad as Hamersley suggests. 

The first time I made this, I weighed the black olives before I pitted them.  Do not make this mistake.  The olives should weigh 4 ounces after the pits are removed.  (Note:  buy the big tub of Kalamata olives at Costco and use a cherry pitter to remove the pits.)

Also, be sure to measure all ingredients carefully.  Too much orange peel and garlic will make the spread bitter as I found out on my first attempt, and too much olive oil makes the spread too drippy.  Two tablespoons of olive oil creates the perfect consistency if you measure all ingredients carefully.

This is now my "go to" appetizer recipe if I need something to serve on a moment's notice. 

The bottom line:  Yummy.  It is worth keeping olives on hand just for this.

Monday, March 8, 2010

Walk-Away Roast Chicken with Onions and Potatoes (page 181)

To go with your Classic Bistro Vinaigrette topped salad, you can't beat Hamersley's Walk-Away Roast Chicken with Onions and Potatoes.  Generally, this recipe is as easy as it sounds.  The only part that requires "a little work and some patience" to quote our author is degreasing the juices.  Even if you do two chickens at once, which I would suggest, there is not that much liquid in the bottom of the roasting pan.  This makes skimming off the liquid difficult.  Letting the juices stand in the refrigerator works but the chicken was definitely best fresh from the oven.  Investing in a gravy separator is the best option. One last note:  Hamersley suggests that one chicken serves 2 to 3.  They must be big eaters in Boston.  At my house, one chicken comfortably served 3 to 4.  A pair of kitchen scissors is perfect to cut the chicken into halves or quarters. 

The bottom line:  WOW.  One of my favorite recipes of all time--good enough for company but easy enough to make every day.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Classic Bistro Vinaigrette (page 29)

The first thing you will learn from the section entitled "The Art of the Salad" is how to spell "vinaigrette" the real way.  Hamersley's vinaigrette incorporates all of the typical vinaigrette ingredients--red wine vinegar, olive oil, shallots, Dijon mustard and seasonings--thus the word "classic" in the name.  The standard ratio of vinegar to oil in vinaigrette varies from 1:3 to 1:4.  Hamersley (and me) prefer the more tangy quality of the 1:3 ratio.  It is worth noting that Hamersley equates 1 shallot to 1 tablespoon chopped.  I don't know where he gets his shallots, but the ones from my local Harris Teeter are considerably larger than 1 tablespoon.

The bottom line:  this is, as the name implies, a typical vinaigrette--great for every day use but unlikely to knock the socks off your guests.   

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Bistro Cooking At Home

Yes, I know, blogging about a cookbook is so "Julie & Julia". But, unlike Julia, Gordon Hamersley needs some press. His cookbook--Bistro Cooking At Home--ranks a lowly #96,201 in Barnes & Noble books sales. This is very undeserved! My goal in this blog is to shine a light on this great cookbook while indulging in my passion for cooking. That said, I will call them as I see them. The fabulous recipes will earn praise and the lesser recipes will be called out as such. Reader comments--affirmative or negative--will also be welcomed.

Disclosure: I have never met Mr. Hamersley and I have never been to his restaurant in Boston--if indeed he still has it. (This cookbook was published in 2003.) His cookbook was recommended to me by friends that had eaten there and were impressed enough to seek out the book. 

Let the cooking begin.